Explore an island where 500 years of shipwrecks, smugglers and sunken treasure are more than just legends.

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Lonely Planet Diving & Snorkeling Bermuda (1st Ed)

Reef Fish Identification

The colonization of Bermuda began with a shipwreck. The Sea Venture was bound for Jamestown, Virginia, in 1609. A hurricane hit, leaving the ship adrift in the middle of the Atlantic and taking on water. After three days, the crew spotted the uninhabited island and steered for it, happily grounding their wooden boat onto the reefs and wading ashore.

Sea Venture was the first recorded Bermuda shipwreck, but by no means the last. By some estimates, thousands of vessels have gone down around the island, creating the greatest collection of diveable shipwrecks in the hemisphere. There are more than 400 documented wreck sites spanning 500 years of history--from Spanish galleons of the 16th century to turn-of-the-century luxury liners, to freighters sunk intentionally as recently as the 1990s.

But there's more to Bermuda than just great wreck diving.

Topside Attractions

Bermuda is one of the safest, cleanest and most efficient destinations anywhere. There are more golf courses here per square mile than any other place on the planet, museums, shopping, a rich history and a unique culture. The groomed resorts, the pink sand beaches, the quaint pastel cottages and the businessmen decked out in power ties, shorts, dark socks and dress shoes--they're all the real culture of Bermuda, not just an image drummed up by the tourist board.

The Dive Report

Visibility/Water Conditions.

Bermuda boasts the Atlantic's best visibility, in excess of 200 feet in peak season. Water conditions are generally calm and current-free, though winter storms during the November-to-May offseason can make conditions too rough to dive. Bermuda waters warm to the low 80s in summer, but can drop to a chilly 65 in late fall and winter. Take a full 3mm wetsuit for summer; a full 5mm to 7mm for late fall, winter and early spring. Gloves, a hood and even a vest are a good idea for cold-natured divers. Don't forget to take warm, dry clothes for between and after dives.

The Reef.

Bermuda's reef system covers 230 square miles and forms canyons, tunnels and archways that rise to meet the water's surface. Though it lacks the coral diversity of Caribbean destinations, the Bermuda reef is obviously healthy, with no signs of bleaching or disease. The usual collection of reef fish, from small blennies to big parrotfish, are here, and with beautiful dive sites rarely exceeding 50 feet, Bermuda is a beginner- and snorkeler-friendly dive destination.

The Wrecks.

There are two kinds: Historic wrecks typically don't have intact hulls because these ships came to violent ends in tragic circumstances. What wasn't destroyed, salvaged or consumed by the sea has been buried in the sand or swallowed by the reef. Dive briefings will explain the history of the wreck and help you find features hidden within the coral. Artificial wrecks, sunk intentionally for divers, are generally upright and intact and they offer great photo opportunities and safe penetration.

Dress Code

If you're planning on an evening out in Bermuda, you'll need better clothes than the "Dive Naked" T-shirt and cutoff jeans you wear off the boat. Fastidious Bermuda has a dress code and not just in posh restaurants. To spare you potential embarrassment, we offer these excerpts from the clothing section of the Bermuda Travel Tips brochure.

• As a rule of thumb, dress conservatively. In public (including public area of hotels), beachwear must be covered. Bare feet are not acceptable in public.
  
• It is an offense to ride cycles or appear in public without a shirt or just wearing a bathing suit top.
  
• Casual sportswear is acceptable in restaurants at lunch, but many restaurants and nightclubs in and out of hotels require gentlemen to wear a jacket and tie in the evenings.
  

Bermuda on a Budget 

Bermuda tourism is geared toward international businessmen, amorous honeymooners and well-heeled travelers, so it's no surprise that accommodations are all first-rate—with prices to match. Here are five ways to economize.

1) Book a Package.
Packages offer convenience and the most competitive prices on both diving and accommodations. They also help limit out-of-pocket expenses like airport transfers that can really add up here. Off-season package rates here are about what other destinations charge for high season, but there's an added advantage—no crowds.

2) Consider Alternative Lodging.
Resort hotels offer amenities and service as premium as their prices, but if you're willing to forgo those luxuries to save a few bucks, there are rental villas and guesthouses that are particularly good for groups of divers. Shop the options at www. bermudatourism.com or ask your dive shop for advice. In most cases, they'll arrange to pick you up by boat or car for dive trips—gratis.

3) Eat In.
Dining out on Bermuda can be another budget-breaker, and a tempting one given the wide selection of great restaurants. Even groceries are expensive, but cooking for yourself during the day may save you enough to splurge on a grand dinner at night. Just remember to pack appropriate clothing.

4) Take the Bus.
The bus system on Bermuda is an efficient and convenient way to get around. The only catch: you must have the exact fare in coins. You can't rent a car on Bermuda, due to tight government restrictions on the number of cars allowed on the island. Scooters are available for rent. Cabs are clean, friendly and readily available, but figure a minimum fare around $10 for even short hops.

5) Buy a Museum Pass.
The Bermuda Heritage Pass allows you unlimited access to eight of Bermuda's leading museums and attractions—including the Bermuda Exploration Institute, the Maritime History Museum and the excellent Aquarium and Zoo. Cost: $35 for adults, $17.50 for kids under 14. Passes are good for four days and available at participating hotels and Visitor Service Bureaus.

Resorts: What Our Readers Say

Reader comments are provided only for those dive operators that received a minimum number of surveys in our Top 100 Readers' Choice Survey.

Southampton Princess.
"A beautiful hotel with great golf, people and food," said readers of this resort on the southwest corner of the island. But, "like all good hotels in Bermuda, it's expensive."

Whale Bay Inn.
"Rates are reasonable and the accommodations are comfortable,"--say divers of these oceanview guest houses with AC, cable TV, microwaves and refrigerators. "If you came to Bermuda to spend time in your room, go somewhere else and spend more. I came to dive," said one satisfied customer.

Hamilton Princess.
Guests at the Southampton's sister resort in Hamilton offered similar comments, and found their resort was "convenient to town" and offered "beautiful views."

The Reefs.
"This is one of the top two resorts on the island. Divers can find less expensive accommodations but if you go first-class, The Reefs is the place to stay," said one reader. "Beautiful surroundings," add others.

Sonesta Beach Resort.
"With 5 excellent restaurants, pool, tennis, croquet, swimming and shuffleboard, we did not even have to leave the resort," was a typical comment for this "full-service hotel/resort" with all the amenities. A "friendly staff" impressed guests who didn't seem to mind that "prices were very expensive."

Dive Operators: What Our Readers Say

Reader comments are provided only for those dive operators that received a minimum number of surveys in our Top 100 Readers' Choice Survey.

Blue Water Divers & Watersports, Ltd.
(888) 434-8323, (441) 234-1034. Comments: At all three locations, Blue Water Divers exceeded customer expectations. "The most professional dive operation I have dealt with in 20-plus dive trips," said one satisfied customer. "Best staff ever," raved another. "All new equipment and boats" didn't hurt, nor did a friendly, accommodating and professional crew.

Fantasea Diving/South Side Scuba.
(888) DO-A-DIVE, (441) 236-6339 Comments: The "friendly and accommodating crew provided a relaxed but safe dive environment" say readers who appreciated "good pre-dive briefings on the history of the wrecks." The small boat was "crowded on weekends," but experienced divers appreciated their freedom while newbies appreciated extra attention.

Nautilus Diving, Ltd.
(441) 295-9485 Comments: "Friendly and helpful staff" and "excellent instructors" are the hallmarks of an operation "hampered somewhat by an old boat." Still, the operation received high scores all around and 83 percent said they would dive with Nautilus again.

Scuba Look.
(441) 293-7319 Comments: "I liked Scuba Look the best of the three operators that I tried," said one reader. Though this operation received only a handful of surveys, all praised the facilities and the boat ("almost new and loaded with safety equipment"). Guests were also pleased with "quality rental equipment" and "very professional and friendly" staff.