Wanting to get a rich Caribbean dive experience this summer I took on a task I was unsure of: Apprehensively, I booked an assignment with Sport Diver magazine. I found it would combine some of my greatest passions: diving, photography, traveling and … baseball. I joined a crew bound for the island paradise of Curaçao (cure-ah-sow). What had I gotten myself into? It would turn out to be one of the best experiences of my life.

Bon Bini! This tiny piece of heaven is located just 35 miles north of Venezuela, nestled between the islands of Aruba and Bonaire. (It is affectionately known as one of the ABC Islands.) Though Aruba and Bonaire seem to garner more attention, I found Curaçao to be just as endearing and energetic regarding tourism and sport diving, if not more so. Upon arrival I could feel the warm Caribbean charm. The air was breezy and warm, and I could hear the trees wisp with the wind. This small island boasts 38 beaches that keep calling your name. The people are friendly and understand English as well as Dutch (it's in the Netherlands Antilles), German and Spanish. They welcomed us with a warm embrace. It's a place for lovers or for the entire family. Dive site for dive site, resort for resort, history for history, I might not find a better destination.

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All-Inclusive Sunsets My first stop was all-inclusive Sunset Waters Dive Resort on the northwest end of the island. The name says it all, and Sunset Waters is just that: After a fun day filled with diving and leisure time, the resort offers up some of the best sunsets I've ever seen. The entire horizon fills with burnt orange, followed by pink clouds on a spectacular blue backdrop. "Magnificent" and "awesome" can only begin to describe what God had created.

The hotel manager, Jim Hunter, greeted us warmly, and I immediately felt welcomed not only to Sunset Waters, but to Curaçao as well. As I toured the resort I could feel the warm evening breezes intermingled with the rhythm of reggae music at the lower pavilion down at the beach. I could already sense that this assignment would leave a deep and lasting impression of this small Caribbean island. I felt right at home from the moment I arrived at the gate, where I first met Rufio, the security guard, to every encounter with the fine resort staff.

Sunset Waters is located at the mouth of Santa Martha Bay. The resort rooms are set atop cliffs that overlook the sea. Every room has a stunning view of the gorgeous white-sand beach, including a small lagoon that beckons divers to the house reef. The house reef is a must-do in your spare time. Their 5-star PADI dive operation is first-class, with two boats and plenty of diver enthusiasm.

The dive operation is owned by Mike Day, who hails from my home state of Colorado. His excellent staff includes Lynn Bean (our dive coordinator) and Carlos (our reef tour guide). When we embarked on the Daydreamer, Carlos gave us all a rundown of the dive destinations, and he was very colorful in his presentation. After all, we were there to have a good time – and he made sure we all did. If you wanted to see something special underwater Carlos could find it for you.

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Unda Bo Ta Bai? Unda bo ta bai? (Where are you going?) Well, I'm going diving, of course. Our first dive site was Santa Cruz. The water was warm, 80-plus degrees, and the visibility was exceptional. As a matter of fact, most of the dive sites had 100-foot-plus visibility. As I descended, camera in hand, I could not help noting that the reef was very healthy – they all were. Every dive site displayed a massive amount of live coral and sponges supporting a diverse range of fish and other sea life. I was in awe of such pristine reef life. I was glad I had my macro attachment to capture the brain coral with numerous Christmas tree worms. Without the usual current, I hoped for that perfect shot. Perhaps I would even spot a seahorse to photograph.

After the proper rest interval – spent snorkeling in a cave – we were off to the Mushroom Forest, my personal favorite. The shallow depth was filled with many large heads of star coral that have eroded bases; at first glance they reminded me of large mushrooms (thus the name the site). I felt as if I was in a Dr. Seuss story. The deeper depths revealed enormous elephant ear sponges (large orange sponges in the shape of an ear), which always make great wide-angle photo opportunities. I made sure I had another diver in the shot for scale to show just how big these sponges were. This was a fun dive, and I still had many more to look forward to.

Embarking on the Daydreamer for a night dive to Lost Anchor stirred fond memories of being a teen in the South Pacific. Night dives are always a fan favorite if the water is calm and clear, and they can be even more enjoyable at a great dive site. This crew knew how to deliver it all. We were all in diver heaven by the time we were done. The reef sprang to life with splashes of beautiful color, eye candy for the soul. I was 13 again (the age I was for my first night dive on the reefs of Guam). The reefs here are as unspoiled and lively as they were 35 years ago in Micronesia. I couldn't get enough, but as always with diving, the air limits us and it's back to the reality of life above the waves. Soon again, my mysterious black-night undersea world!

Mike Day, the man and the myth, captained the boat rolling us out to College Reef, named for the floating Amstel beer keg (used as a buoy) that once marked the dive site. The keg has departed (probably in search of a better party), but the dive site has remained – to the delight of many underwater fanatics (especially this one). Again I found myself at a pristine reef enjoying the opportunity to photograph its many inhabitants.

We also dropped into Hell's Corner, where we enjoyed a nice drift dive in hopes of spotting a turtle or possibly an eagle ray. I found the staghorn coral particularly fascinating as it reminded me of the herds of elk in the mountains of Colorado. The brain coral was more numerous and seemingly larger in size than at other sites. It looked like a science convention. Both dives were equally enjoyable, and by the time we moored I found myself thinking past the oncoming evening and into the next day's adventure.

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Blue Lagun With a lot of free afternoon time I pursued my passion for sightseeing and photography, roaming around the north and west coastlines. I was fascinated by the carefree life of these generous people. The population is not endowed with great monetary wealth, but they are happy and hospitable. One of my favorite stops was in Lagun, a small seaside village with a breathtaking view. Many local boats pepper the small bay of this fishing village. Its picturesque layout reminded me of a Mediterranean coastal village. Local children splashed about in the surf as fishermen prepared their nets in the late-afternoon sun. I jockeyed around to find just the right angle to capture the interesting shadows cast by the nets. I found the cemeteries fascinating. The graves sit above ground, and each is done in carefully tasteful designs in island pastels.

Each small town seems friendly and inviting. When you meet the local people their warm and friendly smiles beckon you to stay a while. The landscape is noticeably dry because there is no water table. The island produces its fresh water at a desalination plant (turning seawater to fresh water), so it was easy to see that they wouldn't want to waste the water on yards. The water is good to drink, so don't waste your money on the bottled stuff. Another look at the land shows how the cactus thrives (not needing much of the H2O) – it abounds at every turn. I was cautious of my surroundings when venturing out.

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Dive and Drive … and Dive The busiest day arrived and I was ready for the grueling schedule that lay ahead. We planned two more dives aboard the Daydreamer and would then pack to move on. Mako's Mountain had similar conditions to Hell's Corner: sponges full of cleaner shrimp, and huge sea fans and sea whips sticking out prominently along the sea wall. Like all the other sites the drop-off was close to the shoreline. This makes for great shore diving without having to swim so far to drop offs. However, make sure the current and conditions warrant shore diving. Also, let the resort dive center know of your intentions before you go, and remember to let them know of your safe return.

A return to Lost Anchor bade me farewell to the Sunset Waters experience. I did not find the anchor either time, but Carlos was willing to throw one in to keep me happy. I took the time to parallel the site with our recent night dive. Although the view was wonderful I kept drifting back to how much more alive this site was at night. The nighttime belongs to reef life, and it all comes out to party. I forgot my cervesa and beads. Oh well! Next time, and very soon.

I enjoyed the drive along the coastline to Habitat Curaçao. I had not seen it in the daytime. The tall cliffs along the way sported beautiful houses. I want one for Christmas. Habitat is considered one of the best all all-inclusive dive resorts anywhere. I wasn't disappointed one bit. The resort takes great care in providing the all-inclusive dive experience. You just have to show up, and they take care of it all from there. It's located near Saint Willibrordus, on the west side of the island, with rooms tiered upward like stadium seating. Habitat is anything but ordinary. Like the other resorts I visited, it offers two-tank boat dives, unlimited shore dives and even classes for certification.

We ventured out to Long Beach. I had my macro lens ready, still hoping to spot a seahorse. I settled for more shots of Christmas tree worms. It was a relaxing dive. Even with fatigue inching in, the next dive site was simply fun. We splashed into the water at Cas Abou ("lower house"). While enjoying the playful reef life I came across a sunken sign offering beach chair rentals. Nice concept. Stretch out on a lounge chair and watch the fish go by.

Both dives ended, but to my dismay I had still not seen the elusive seahorse I so desperately wanted to photograph. I was lucky enough to be treated to a spectacular sunset during dinner. After the sun retreated I sat down to a superb local dish: Keshi yena is meat seasoned and stuffed into gouda cheese. I definitely got more than I bargained for. I'm glad I came hungry. Habitat has a great overall ambience. Looking back, this resort has the right to boast that it's Curaçao's finest.

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Let There Be Rest Arriving at Breezes Curaçao is like steeping out into a Las Vegas hotel. There is a casino on the premises for those wanting to try their hand with Lady Luck. I chose not to this trip, keeping my focus on the diving adventure. I never drink and dive, so I thought it prudent to pass on the included spirits. I was quite surprised at the size of this all-inclusive palace. It has three restaurants; the best is Japanese, where they cook the food right in front of you while you enjoy sushi, sashimi and a variety of drinks. This resort has it all for the family-oriented vacation. They even have a rock-climbing wall. The beach is kept impeccably clean, and there are constant activities onsite and off. The rooms are spacious, but make sure you get the west side so you don't miss the incredible sunsets. Many palm trees in the foreground make for a stunning photo.

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Last Chance on a Great Day After a good night's rest I located the dive shop and waited for the boat and crew from Ocean Encounters. Ocean Encounters is owned and operated by Nolo, his wife, Monica, and their son, Christian. They also have a boat captain (as well as master diver), Remi, whom I befriended and still keep in touch with. What a pleasant crew of people. They are truly warm and sincere. They make diving as enjoyable as it should be. My special thanks to this endearing family for enhancing my Curaçao experience. They pay great attention to detail to show you unusual sea life such as the mantis shrimp, fire worms and the elusive seahorse, which I missed. Boy did I suck the air that dive. I even learned a neat trick from Monica. She uses a magnifying glass to make the smaller sea life, like fire worms, look bigger. This way you get to see more detail of the subject.

The water did not seem as calm as on the northwest end but that would not deter my plans to take another dip or two with the gear on. Camera in hand we headed for the Superior Producer. This wreck lies in about 110 feet of water and sits on the bottom as if it were placed there by caring hands. Just after leaving the port the crew found out the cargo had shifted. The ship took on water and sank while waiting to get back into the port. I always get excited about wreck diving. I loaded my camera with black and white film for that eerie ghost-ship effect. The clear 100-foot-plus visibility and no current made for great shots. Wrecks off Southern California are in murky water, and the current is too strong at Belize's barrier reef. This time the conditions were perfect for my photos.

When we anchored near the tug wreck at Saba, we found ourselves in shallow water, which gave me a little more time to find Seabiscuit (my now-named seahorse). With great visibility, the marine life around the tug sprang to life as if it were time to put on a Broadway show. The sponges seemed fuller as the fish darted about. Although other divers were more successful, once again the little orange seahorse eluded my lens. Time ran out to fulfill my unicorn vision.

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Fort Pete's Sake On an afternoon journey I took in the sights around Willemstad. Fort Amsterdam guards the entrance to this busy port, and Fort Nassau guards the inside of the bay. It's amazing to see the history this tiny island has in over 400 years of its modern colonization. The Punda side of Willemstad offers a shopper's delight, including a floating market where the public buys its fish, fruits and vegetables. The city people are warm and friendly. Even the poor offer the opportunity to wash your vehicle (for a small price) while you explore the streets on the Punda side.

Otrabanda ("other side") offers a little shopping, but its gem is the history it supports. The museums tell of Curaçao's dark past. Most notable is Kurá Hulanda, the museum dedicated to telling the story of Curaçao's connection to Africa and the slave trade. The two sides are usually connected together by the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge, making it an easy walk from one side to the other; however, when I was there it was taken away for repairs. From the Otrabanda side you can look across and see the beauty of the Punda waterfront buildings that make this port famous. You can catch a ferry to either side.

I also took the time to visit Fort Beekenberg, which guards Caracas Bay and Spanish Harbor. The structure, although overgrown by thistle and cactus, offers up a chance to see into the past. Using your imagination, you can almost feel what it was like to keep watch for any oncoming visitors or enemies. There is a house for sale on the point. You can buy it for one dollar (that's right) but the catch is that it comes with the fort and you have to renovate both to the original condition. Any takers?

The people of Curaçao take their Sundays off as an opportunity to celebrate life. After church services they all gather at the beach or bay to swim, go fishing, boating and sailing or just have a good old-fashioned cookout. Stores are closed and life just seems to relax altogether. Simply driving around and enjoying this sight was enough to make anyone forget the hustle and flow of the city. What a treat it was to enjoy their warm friendliness!

There is a history on this island. It starts with the Dutch slave trade, but you can feel the pride of a people that overcame slavery, prejudice and hardship to carve out a small island nation beaming with pride. This country produces its own water, exports Amstel beer and produces Curaçao liqueur. They even refine oil. But perhaps the most astonishing fact about this country is that it has the heart and soul of America's pastime, baseball.

"I'm very proud of my boys. They showed me their heart and desire to win for our country," said Vernon Isabella. Vernon is the Atlanta Braves AA minor-league coach, who also coaches the world champion Little League team which won it all in 2004 and was runner-up to Hawaii in 2005. I took a day to watch him coach his team at Tio Dau Stadium. This small experience capped off a wonderful assignment.

Ayo Farewell, Curaçao. It was a marvelous experience that I can never forget. A return visit will top my diving vacation wish list. When I have an Amstel beer I will drift back to the warm water of Caracas Bay, island music, children splashing in the water and diving off mooring pilons. I'll don my dive gear and submerge myself back into the waiting arms of this friendly and gentle country. Will you join me? Happy diving.

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Snorkeling With many spectacular dive sites – nearly 70 – Curaçao offers great snorkeling as well. Many of these dive sites are accessible for both swimming and snorkeling. There are unmarked roads that lead you to these hot spots. It's always a good idea to let your resort know of your intentions, but don't forget to check back in when you're finished. Check current conditions and stay close to the shoreline. Many locations have drops-offs closer to shore, which means there is a close, shallower reef to enjoy. Please be aware of the environment around you so that future generations can someday enjoy the same experience.

Page[pagebreak] Being on Assignment

Last year I sat in amazement, watching the Curaçao Little League team dismantle every opponent they faced. It was, once again, a precision performance that was only stopped by a walk-off home run by the Hawaiian team (which won the title), and prevented the tiny Caribbean island from winning back-to-back world titles. Now I'm delighted to find myself on assignment to Curaçao for Sport Diver magazine. I look forward to the challenge with the glee of one of those players. This diverse multicultural community with warm and inviting hospitality, with Old World charm and history, and with some of the best dive sites in the Caribbean, will be my home for eight wonderful days. I find myself with the chance to combine my three greatest passions: photography, scuba diving and baseball. What's a boy to do? Go diving, of course, take some great underwater and island photos, and then watch a little baseball, Curaçao style. Bon bini.

Page[pagebreak] Deco Stops: For a unique experience with African wildlife head to the Ostrich and Game Farm to see just how this bird develops into the largest and fastest in the world. It has a restaurant on site where you can enjoy a meal of ostrich meat or eggs. Kurá Hulanda, on the Otrabanda side of Willemstad, is a unique museum that chronicles the African slave trade to Curaçao. The Sea Aquarium is a unique hands-on ecosystem experience for the entire family. The floating market on the Punda side is teeming with boats that sell fish, fruit and vegetables to the city's inhabitants – walk along and try some of the fresh produce. There are several forts that can be explored, most notably Fort Beekenberg at Caracasbaai. The fort is fun to explore, and afterward you can enjoy one or two great beaches with plenty of good snorkeling. The bay is also the location of a picturesque sunken tugboat.

Page [pagebreak] Gary Haines Bio:

Age: 48; born 12/24/1956 in Bremerhaven, Germany Hometown: San Diego, California Reside in: Colorado Springs, Colorado, since 1987 Dive certified in 1970 on Guam

Favorite Dive Destinations: 1) Hawaii (mostly Maui). 2) Belize 3) Guam 4) Okinawa 5) Grand Cayman

I would like to retire soon on Maui. I love warm climates and I am constantly looking to improve my photo skills. My son Carl now dives and is in the Navy. I look forward to more dives with him as I once did with my father.

e-mail address: [email protected]