Cenotes.

The word conjures up a wide spectrum of possibilities, depending on one's point of view:

For the knowledgeable geologist, archaeologist, and anthropologist, these openings into the giant subterranean rivers of the Yucatan Peninsula represent a treasure trove, an opportunity to access the hidden secrets of this rich region. Fossils, artifacts, and human remains have helped establish the central role that the cenotes played in the lives of the ancient Mayans' mighty civilizations-as sources of all-important water, as refuges and dwellings, and as places of worship; to them, these caverns were portals into Xibalba, the Underworld, and thus inextricably linked to their everyday lives and their religion.

Most recently, the cenotes have revealed yet another face: as the New Frontier of recreational diving and snorkeling. For years, divers from around the globe have made their own pilgrimage to the sun-splashed shores of the Mexican Caribbean state of Quintana Roo, seeking the turquoise waters and spectacular reefs that make this one of the world's premier dive destinations. The stretch of coastline between Cancun and Tulum has now come to be known as the Riviera Maya, in recognition of its beautiful and diverse offerings.

Divers are, by nature and by definition, an adventurous and restless breed, and, therefore, always on the lookout for the next horizon. It was inevitable that the discovery of the cenotes as a venue for unparalleled aquatic recreation should be just a matter of time, and that time has come. Quintana Roo boasts the three longest underground rivers in the world-all still under exploration--in addition to dozens of smaller individual cenotes and systems. Situated in spectacular settings amid the lush tropical jungle, most of these offer underwater visibility two to three times that of the Caribbean Sea on any given day of the year, and are decorated with fantastic gardens of speleothems, delicate stone formations grown above and below water over the course of thousands of years.

The response of the first-time visitor to these hidden wonderlands is almost invariably one of amazement and delight. Even when storms or rough weather make the beaches and ocean an impractical destination, the slight currents and remarkable underwater visibility in the cenotes combine to offer a highly satisfying alternative. It is not an exaggeration to say that the region boasts the best of this kind of snorkeling and diving in the world.

Word of mouth spreads quickly. In a few short years the cenotes have gone from being an obscure and little-known feature of the Riviera maya to one of its primary attractions. This, of course, is good news for the local dive shops and watersports operators, but also raises some potential concerns. Cavern diving and snorkeling are new to most visitors, and there are basic guidelines to follow in order to ensure maximum enjoyment and safety. The increasing number of visitors coupled with rapid development implies a corresponding potential impact on these delicate and unique ecosystems, which are vital to the survival of the region itself. Unfortunately, not all of the guides and tour operators who offer their services to the public are qualified to promote proper awareness of these circumstances.

Enter APSA-Asociacion de Proveedores de Servicios Acuaticos , or Association of Aquatic Services Providers of the Riviera Maya, was formed in 1998 as an organization of concerned and forward-seeing local dive and watersport operators. From its humble beginnings as a small group of working divers with a vision of working together to promote safer diving and better business practices, APSA has grown to become a coalition of 35 dive shops and water-park operators, representing over 80% of the legitimate watersports providers in the Riviera Maya. Along the way, it has forged ties of mutual respect and support with such government bodies as SECTUR, the Secretary of Tourism; INM, the Institute for Naturalization and Immigration; SEMARNAT, the Secretary of the Environment and Natural Resources; and INAH, the National Institute of Archaeology and History. APSA has, among other projects, spearheaded reef conservation through the proper placement of permanent dive boat moorings, promoted proper certification for boat captains and crews by offering courses in First Aid/CPR and specialized guide training, supported closer ties between watersports operators and the community through such activities as beach clean-up weekends, and actively championed the cause of supporting and promoting local personnel through Mexican Divemaster and Instructor training. Anyone who has lived and worked in Latin America can appreciate the significance, as well as the challenge, of such undertakings in such a setting.

Most recently, APSA and its members are addressing what is rapidly becoming one of the more pressing issues of the region: proper use and preservation of the cenotes. September of 2002 marked the first two sessions of APSA's new Cavern Guide Course, over a year in the making. More than sixty highly experienced cenote guides, including some of the best-known Instructors in the region, turned up to be qualified under the new program. The fact that the Course took this long to craft reflects the primary concerns of the Instructors and members of APSA's Cenote Committee: that the final product be effective, comprehensive, and the result of a consensus among the cave diving community of the Riviera Maya. Given the considerable amount of time and labor that went into the creation of the program, it was no surprise that the general mood at the conclusion of these first sessions was one of camaraderie, mutual support, and jubilation.

The attendance list at these inaugural sessions reads like a Who's Who in Mexican cave diving. Bil Phillips, a widely respected and highly regarded Cave Instructor and one of the Program coordinators, pointed out that the potentially daunting task of putting together the Course was made possible through the combined efforts of many veteran Instructors, including APSA members Scott Carnahan, Andreas "Matt" Mathes, Danny Riordan, Fred Devoes, Kate Lewis, Len Bucko, Steve Bogaerts, G. T. "Buddy" Quattlebaum, and Steve Gerrard. Given the high level of individuality which is a hallmark of this community, to gather together so many of its members at once in a common cause may well represent one of APSA's crowning achievements to date.

It stands to reason that these divers, who spend the greatest amount of time in and around the cenotes, are in the best position to promote awareness on the part of both visitors and landowners; therefore, no effort was spared in elaborating a Course that would reinforce those guides already in the field, as well as those just entering it. Topics covered during the two-day program include: general history and formation of the area, accident and incident response, proper client orientation and briefing, specific safety and comfort parameters while guiding in caverns, and special equipment requirements and configuration for the cenotes.

One of the strictest tests that such a new, local effort must face is its reception by the larger diving community. Tom Mount is the Chairman of IANTD, one of the three major cave-diving agencies, none of which currently conducts a specific cavern guide training course. Contacted by Scott Carnahan and Buddy Quattlebaum for his feedback regarding APSA's program, Mount was sufficiently impressed with its scope and objectives to approve it as an IANTD specialty. In effect, this means that any qualified IANTD Cave Instructor can now certify successful graduates as IANTD Cavern Guides. It is hoped that the other major agencies will consider following suit; the outstanding safety record compiled by the cenote Instructors and guides of the Riviera Maya thus far would seem to bode well for the future.

For many travelers, Mexico has long epitomized a certain indolent lawlessness: land of manana and bandidos. While this picture does add a certain sense of romantic adventure, it may not always be the most appealing for divers who also value safety and efficiency. Therefore, it is both refreshing and reassuring to note the efforts of APSA and its members, ensuring that divers can be confident of receiving the level of service to be expected from this world-class destination.

Hidden Worlds Cenotes Home of the Worlds Best Cavern Dive [email protected] www.hiddenworlds.com.mx