Lush kelp forests, sea lions, seals, flirtatious garibaldi and sheephead fishes, massive black sea bass, bountiful macro life, and nudibranchs galore - the Channel Islands of California deliver some wonderful, cool-water diving, just a couple of hours' boat ride from Los Angeles or Santa Barbara.

I’ve been fortunate to be able to make half a dozen trips to dive the Channel Islands over the past decade or so. All of these trips were three-day live-aboard adventures on the Truth Aquatics boats out of Santa Barbara. These boats aren’t in any way lux (more like camping at sea), but they offer up great, budget-friendly, diver-centric platforms from which to plunge into the many rich and lively dive sites in both the north islands (Anacapa, Santa Cruz, San Miguel, Santa Rosa) and the south islands (Santa Catalina and San Clemente), as well as sometimes (weather dependent) the opportunity to dive several seamounts that crop up in these waters.

On my first trip, I got a rude surprise when the boat departed in the wee hours from the calm moorage behind the breakwater at Santa Barbara and headed out into six-foot swells. I found myself levitating in my bunk (seriously!) after we crested each wave. Seasickness meds — for me, a Scopalamine patch — make the difference between spending the trip with my head hung over the lee gunwale, or being able to enjoy the excellent food and company, and to manage the sometimes rough crossings with impunity.

The thing about California divers is that they are a hardy bunch. You have to be to handle the cooler water temperatures and often rough crossings from the mainland to some safe haven in the lee of one of the islands. Not to mention the ignominious task of hauling one’s arse out of the sea onto the swim grid at the stern of the boat ;) Entry to the water is by giant stride, about four feet up from the side of the boat, or about seven feet up from a bow entry. Sploooosh! Also of note, is that on the Truth Aquatics boats (there are several), there is no dive guide or divemaster in the water. Divers are expected to have a competency level that allows them to buddy dive without supervision. Divers also have to be able to find the anchor line as the dives are done from fixed moorings. That isn’t always easy in thick kelp ;)

A drysuit or layered 7 mm wetsuit (both with cold-water hood and gloves) is the prescribed apparel – despite warm air temperatures in California, these islands are subjected to cold ocean currents that can bring water temperatures down to as low as the high 40s (brrrr!) in the northern islands, and typically mid-50s to low 70s in the south. I’ve always chosen to dive dry, as these are big days, with typically five dives being offered. With the right exposure protection, the diving is sweet, and I have enjoyed many 90-minute-plus dives in these cool waters.

The group I have gone with is an eclectic mix of folks who “met” through an internet dive community board (D2D on ScubaDiving.com), planned a trip in September 2002, had a blast, and have made it an annual trip ever since. Many of the divers are from California, but folks also drive or fly in from as far away as the east coast of the U.S., as well as a few token Canadians (myself included), to join in what is always guaranteed to be a great time. The California divers are always very generous in buddying up with the kelp-diving newbies. Beware the kelp monster!

Oh, and about that kelp monster? Kelp truly is a wondrous thing – really, it feels almost surreal to be diving in an emerald forest of sinuous aquatic "trees". The kelp around Catalina Island is particularly thick and abundant, and it makes for some sublime diving in the “kelp cathedrals” there, especially when the sun penetrates the canopy in beautiful shafts of light. But kelp is also a serious entanglement hazard, and knowing how to extricate oneself is critical. The kelp has a way of wrapping itself around fin straps, camera arms and first stages. At first awareness that you have been snagged by the kelp monster, it is essential to stay calm and not thrash about. Spinning and fighting it will only result in more serious entanglement. It is best to have your buddy unwind the offending kelp from its catch points. Self-rescue means trying to slowly back out, hopefully breaking off the bits of kelp that are creating the entanglement. Worst case would be removing your rig (keeping your reg in your mouth!) to free yourself, but that would only be as a last resort.

Finally, a bit about the islands themselves. They are stunningly beautiful, and with the exception of Catalina, pretty much uninhabited. On my first visit, I found myself comparing them to the Galapagos – they have that same, wild, untamed aura about them. Sea lion rookeries, masses of birds, regular sightings of whales and dolphins, starkly beautiful rocky shorelines – it is hard to believe this is all so close to the heavily populated southern California coastline. It feels like it is a world away.

_Born and raised on the west coast of Canada, Judy has always felt a strong connection to the ocean. As an avid underwater photographer and photo essayist, Judy has traveled extensively to pursue her passion. Her work has been featured in several dive publications and websites. To follow her photo and travel blog, visit her at: Awoosh.com _