Diving the Philippines: Seas of Plenty

With more than 35,000 kilometers of coastline, the Philippines is the second-largest archipelago on the planet. As a dive destination, the surrounding waters are bursting with a spectacular variety of marine life.

In fact, researchers suggest this might be the very epicenter for marine biodiversity on the planet. We became believers on our first visit, and with every trip since, the diving has revealed new discoveries with jaw-dropping regularity. Fantastic local dive guides and some of the friendliest people in the world offer up a welcome that makes having fun obligatory. And when we can’t stand being wet another day, there is an entire country of exotic landscapes, raging waterfalls and rumbling volcanoes to explore. Signs of dynamism below the earth’s crust are literally everywhere for this nation on the Ring of Fire, and only add to its magic. And the country is remarkably easy to reach. Here are four great places to start.

The reef at Beatrice Rock is prized by underwater photographers for its Technicolor riot of corals and mobs of schooling anthias. The site — off the Anilao region on the Luzon coast — offers a pinnacle, a series of drop-offs and spectacular viz.

The adventure begins the moment the pilot warns passengers that the runway on Busuanga Island is a bit shorter than the recommended distance for the aircraft, and severe braking will be in use. Once safe on land, only the occasional goat or cow populates the hour-long drive to the port town, and the dive operators are found where local life and business are suspended above the water.

But the real reason for this arduous effort is to dive the 10 spectacular World War II wrecks loaded with growth and overflowing with life in the protected bay. Not to be missed is the striking volcanic island of Coron, and the weird and wonderful Barracuda Lake — crystal-clear, volcanically heated water with lots of odd critters, all in a setting that will take your breath away.

Negros is a lush and fertile island of rainforests, waterfalls, thermal springs and massive cave systems that’s easily accessed from nearby Cebu City, where an international airport is served by plentiful connecting flights. The three-and-a-half-hour ferry ride south to Dumaguete City is the gateway to truly awesome diving.

Underwater, Negros offers amazing critter encounters, including such rare species as the painted frogfish, ghost pipefish and flamboyant cuttlefish. But the highlight here is the world-renowned marine reserve, Apo Island, where spectacular reefs brimming with exotic corals harbor impressive schools of jacks and reef fish. The open waters of the Bohol Sea also bring visitors like large tuna, mantas and the occasional hammerhead shark.

Established in 1988 and named a World Heritage Site in 1993, Tubbataha Natural Reefs Park is comprised of two coral atolls isolated in the gemlike waters of the Sulu Sea. Miles from anywhere, the protected marine park is a recognized marine-life nursery for the rest of the Sulu and Sulawesi seas, as well as a huge bird rookery.

Tubbataha Reef Atoll, Sulu Sea

It’s true wilderness diving, with challenging currents and lots of pelagics, including sharks and eagle rays. Reached by liveaboards, visits are limited by weather to mid-March through early June. Most departures originate in Puerto Princesa, on Palawan, where a side trip to ride down the world’s second-longest subterranean river is a must.

Some of the most celebrated diving in the Philippines is just a short run from the capital of Manila. Anilao is a region on the coast of Luzon with a lively harbor market, but is otherwise notable for a quiet undulating coastline of small dive resorts. Entertainment in this laid-back region is primarily found beneath the surface of the water.

Puerto Galera is an hour-long ferry ride away, but yields a very different personality. The beach is the main road for locals and visitors alike, and little hotels and restaurants spill onto it (and each other) in whimsical abandon. In either location, photographers will be overwhelmed with some of the best muck diving in the world, but equally impressive are the nearby wide-angle reefscapes.