It levitates slowly upward, knobbly nose pointed to the sky. When it catches sight of us, the humpback whale calf checks its measured ascent. The 2-ton baby launches into playfulness, performing a comically uncoordinated barrel roll. Showing off to the world, it wiggles about as if pleased with the fit of a new suit. It then turns our way and surges over to investigate the strange newcomers. The­ ­curious youngster weaves ­between us, spouting with ­gusto and favoring a lucky few with mischievous glances. Then, with a swish of its tail flukes, it swims away.

After the bubble cloud ­surrounding me clears, I stare, awestruck, watching the calf glide down to where its mother hangs motionless. Did that really just happen?

Touched by a Whale

Back on board Turks & Caicos Aggressor II for lunch, half of the guests are stunned into silence. The others are excitedly jabbering, ­recounting tales of first contact: “He stared right at me and my heart stopped,” and, “That was the coolest thing ever!” I agree. I’m having ­trouble focusing on my fettuccine. It’s yummy, but through the windows, I see two whales breaching 50 yards to starboard. Once whales are in your blood, you’re never the same again. Christine, seated across from me and a veteran of 10 Aggressor whale cruises, reverently recounts how her first trip here—bucket-list item—so profoundly affected her that she’s been reliving the life-changing experience each year since.

“Here” is the Silver Bank, a shallow, submerged plateau reef 90 miles off the ­Dominican Republic that plays ­wintertime home to thousands of North ­Atlantic humpback whales. With fewer than 600 people ­visiting ­annually, whales outnumber ­humans flipper over fist, a ratio that helps conserve this marine mammal ­sanctuary. Humpbacks have traveled here from their summertime feeding grounds off New England and farther north to ­relax, give birth and mate. We’ve timed our own late-February ­migration ­simply to bob about in their majestic presence.

Dreams Come True

Each morning and afternoon, 18 cetacean-smitten guests gather on the ship’s back deck with mask, snorkel and fins—and an impressive array of camera gear—to board two inflatable tenders for tours of the vast 10-by-12-mile ­Silver Bank. Capt. Amanda Smith ­reminds all that each run is different. Some excursions last two hours, some five. Some humpbacks want to interact, others don’t. The whales call the shots.

One afternoon, we find a humpback “rowdy group”—three spirited males jostling for position in pursuit of a female in estrus doing her best to ditch them. It’s a 100-ton freight train of pent-up ­passion and bravado. With so much testosterone in the water, we stay topside for safety. Later we’re witness to more sedate, civilized courtship. After receiving a radio invite from our sister skiff, we spend 90 minutes with an amorous pair. Both are mellow, allowing us to float so close that I fancy I hear their beating hearts. My friend Malika’s dazzling smile speaks volumes. “A little girl’s lifelong dream just came true,” she says.

Our guide moves us into position for unforgettable views into the whales’ world, and the skipper pilots us unerringly to epic action. Chef Chace Gaudreau serves us loaded potato soup between tender runs while we’re still suited up on the swim step, ensuring our inner fires keep burning. James Whittle mixes up killer cocktails so we can toast both whales breaching on the horizon and our new human friends. And each night we find chocolates on our pillows—a nice touch that brings sweet dreams.

Honorary Pod Members

Day dawns with a brisk wind whipping up whitecaps. A mother and calf celebrate by breaching and teaching, taking turns going airborne. ­Dutiful instruction in the flying arts, or simply having fun jumping because they can? Their exuberance is contagious. We cheer, shooting pictures between dousing waves of salty spray and drifting clouds of misty whale breath.

Being liveaboard-based in the middle of whale nation, you can’t help but feel part of the pod. An encounter near our mothership reinforces that bond. Twenty feet below, a calf is wedged under its mother’s chin. A well-behaved male escort is deeper, standing guard against suitors. The baby pops up to breathe, and I hold my breath as it wanders over to us briefly before orbiting back down to Mom. Every three minutes it repeats the circuit, ascending to exhale and inhale, then descending to nestle in the crook of Mother’s glowing pectoral flipper, or flop upside down on her snout, or stand up proudly on her head. Mom is certainly aware of us, and judging us no threat, continues half-snoozing. The comfortable intimacy of this family scene, the privilege I feel in being part of it, completely overwhelms me.

5 Reasons to Choose Turks & Caicos Aggressor II

1. Whales 101: Aggressor’s presentations on humpbacks teach whale anatomy and behavior, and cover rules governing snorkeling encounters. 2. Humpback Happy Hour: Join fellow whale huggers on the top deck to enjoy tasty munchies and custom crafted cocktails, all while humpbacks breach and spout as the sun sets. A dip in the hot tub completes the pre-dinner pampering. 3. Fins in the Water: Capt. Amanda Smith has 15 seasons of experience steering the big ship to the Silver Bank, driving the Zodiacs, interpreting whale behaviors, and expertly advising guests how to approach and observe humpbacks. 4. Passive Perfection: Whale interaction protocol has been perfected over 20 years. Unobtrusive snorkeling strategies deliver phenomenal results, and virtually eliminate disturbance of the whales. 5. Symbiosis: Aggressor’s partnership with Aqua Lung means you’re covered with a free loaner mask, fins and snorkel if you need anything.

Need to Know

When to Go Humpback whale snorkeling itineraries to the Silver Bank are offered ­January through April.

Travelers Tips Traveling through Puerto Plata (POP) International Airport is most convenient; Santiago (STI) is another option (and often cheaper) for those willing to arrange private transfers (approximately 1½ hours and $80 each way). Bring a kayak-style dry bag to keep your topside camera and extra ­batteries dry while in the inflatable boats. Mount your GoPro on the underside of your housed DSLR camera to ensure your video footage is always below the waterline.

Snorkeling Conditions Ocean temperatures during whale season range from 77 to 80°F. Most people use 1.5 mm or 3 mm wetsuits. Layer with a hooded vest if needed. Only snorkeling gear (mask, snorkel and fins) is necessary; no scuba is allowed. Visibility ranges between 25 and 100 feet. Whale-watching excursions are conducted from two 18-foot-long Zodiac-style ­inflatable chase boats with ­Bimini tops and ladders.

Operator Turks & Caicos ­Aggressor II (aggressor.com) offers Saturday to ­Saturday charters, departing from Ocean World Marina outside Puerto Plata. The vessel is a 120-foot aluminum yacht with a 22-foot beam. A crew of six cares for 18 guests. Six deluxe staterooms and one master stateroom have en suite bathrooms; two twin staterooms share a bathroom; and all offer air conditioning, 110-volt power and a media player.

Price Tag Seven-night cruises (4½ snorkeling days) in 2020 are priced at $3,995 per person for shared accommodations in twin staterooms with a shared bathroom; $4,195 in deluxe staterooms with private bathrooms; and $4,495 in the master stateroom with private bathroom. Dinner onshore Friday night and transfers to/from airport and hotels are not included in the ­charter price. A $350 per person Whale ­Sanctuary Access Fee is ­payable on board in cash.